PR9 crosses Madeira's Laurissilva forest through wet tunnels and narrow ledges before reaching the Caldeirão Verde waterfall. This is our full experience.
PR9: a green fairy tale in Madeira
PR9 Levada do Caldeirão Verde begins at Casa das Queimadas and runs for roughly 12 km round trip to a waterfall inside a natural amphitheater.
The route overlooks São Jorge, enters dense Laurissilva forest and crosses narrow tunnels. At the end, water falls more than 100 meters into a clear pool.
Open the interactive trail map on AllTrails.
Levadas and veredas: what is the difference?
Levadas follow Madeira’s historic irrigation channels. They are often shaded, wet and narrow, with waterfalls and tunnels. Veredas cross open mountain terrain, usually with steeper climbs, panoramic views and little shade.
Caldeirão Verde is a classic levada: cool, humid and immersed in raw Laurissilva forest.
September weather
We hiked in early September during sunny, warm weather. Unlike exposed routes such as Ponta de São Lourenço, the forest provided continuous shade. Cool air in the tunnels and spray from waterfalls made the walk much more comfortable.
Access and parking
The road to Queimadas Forest Park was one of the narrowest we drove in Madeira. We were lucky not to meet an oncoming vehicle.
Parking requires patience and luck. We found a space just inside the gate, while several cars behind us were turned away. The hourly, cash-only machine was not user-friendly, and our final parking bill was €10.
There is a small café and ticket office at the entrance. Trail access cost €3 per person and accepted cards.
Starting late, as usual
We began at 10 a.m. and returned around 6 p.m. Our pace was slower because I had a strong cold but refused to miss the hike.
The opening kilometers were quiet. Later, early hikers returning met late starters on the same narrow path, creating the human traffic jams we had read about.
Water, forest and narrow passages
PR9 is an immersion in the UNESCO-listed Laurissilva forest. Water runs beside the path, moss and ferns cover old trees, and small cascades fall directly across the trail.
The shade is one of the trail’s greatest strengths. September heat would have made an exposed route exhausting, but the forest kept the effort manageable.
Crowds still affect the rhythm. Because everyone uses the same trail in both directions, narrow sections require one group to wait. We also saw visitors wearing shopping-mall shoes, carrying no water or food and ignoring the risks.
Three dark tunnels
The three tunnels are among the route’s most memorable features. They are wet, narrow and low enough to require crouching. A headlamp is essential because it leaves both hands free.
Ledges and drops
Some sections cling to the mountainside, with deep drops protected mainly by steel cables. Stay on the path and pay attention. These same sections reveal enormous green walls and ravines, but accidents happen when visitors underestimate the terrain.
Surprisingly few insects
Coming from Canada, we expected mosquitoes and carried repellent. In September, despite the humidity, we saw almost none. I cannot promise the same year-round, but it made every rest stop more pleasant.
The finale: Caldeirão Verde
After a little more than four hours at our slow pace, we reached the natural amphitheater and its waterfall of over 100 meters.
We stayed for more than an hour, taking photographs and watching the water. Alice considered swimming but stopped at her feet because the water was freezing. A few brave hikers went all the way in.
What to bring
- Waterproof hiking shoes for mud and puddles.
- A headlamp for the tunnels.
- Quick-drying clothing.
- Water and food because there are no services on the route.
- An early start to reduce crowds and improve your parking chances.
- Patience and full attention near exposed drops.
Is Levada do Caldeirão Verde worth it?
Absolutely. Even with my cold and our slow pace, it was one of the most memorable hikes of our Madeira trip. Instead of intense sun and exposed slopes, PR9 gave us shade, waterfalls, tunnels and deep green scenery.
The final waterfall rewards every kilometer. If you have time for only one hike and want to experience Madeira’s forest rather than only its mountain viewpoints, this levada belongs on your itinerary.
🌎 Have a great trip, and see you on the next adventure!
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